Q&A regarding the Tissue & Vinyl Technique for converting stamps

I've been getting lot's of email about the vinyl I use for converting wood mount stamps to clear mount. So today we'll do some Q&A –

Q:  What are the measurements of the sheets? Do you have an idea of how many stamps can be converted per vinyl sheet (I realize the sizes vary so much, just hoping for some idea on how much I need)? And then my last question is the price for the sheets, does that include s&h? 

SSF9X12VinylSheet A: The sheets are 9" X 12".  This picture shows how many stamps can fit onto one sheet of vinyl.  I've outlined a 9" X 12" rectangle on a piece of grid paper and filled it with stamps. I'm packaging it in super strong 10" X 13" Tyvek envelopes and there will be paper separating the sheets of vinyl.  This is not the type of tissue paper that I use to stamp on, it simply keeps the vinyl from sticking together. Prices include shipping.  These are only $1.75 per sheet when you order the pack of 15!!

Q: Do I have to use StazOn ink?  

A: I recommend StazOn because it has given me the best results.  I tried the Classic Black ink and it looked great for about 2 days until it started to bleed.  You can still see the image, but it doesn't look as sharp or as nice as when I used StazOn.

Q:  When I put the stamp onto the tissue paper, it "bleeds" the image a bit – the result is an image that isn't nearly as crisp as the image truly is. I'm using StazOn.  It seems to bleed when I hold it down to trace around the stamp edge. Do you have any sugggestions for overcoming this?  My only thought would be to stamp it onto regular paper, but I'm not sure if that will be too thick?

A: Make sure your ink is dry before applying the glue.  Is your StazOn ink pad a new one?  Does it have allot of ink?  It's possible that the stamp is getting too wet and that is causing the bleeding when you hold it still for the time required to trace around it.  Maybe, as an experiment, you could stamp it once -lightly- onto a piece of scratch paper and then onto the tissue – hold it still & trace.  Check if that gives you the desired results. I would not use text weight paper as you risk it cracking with repeated use.  The tissue paper is so thin and flexible that I haven't had any problems with it.

Q: Can I just use the sticker that comes with the stamp set instead of stamping on the tissue? Why use the vinyl when the dried Tombow will stick on the clear block without it?

A: I don't recommend this because, over time, it could start to leave a sticky residue on your clear blocks that could be hard to remove.  Also, if you leave a stamp on the block for too long, you risk damage when removing it as it could try to bond permanently.

Q: When you are using a new wood mount set that has not been mounted, you stamp an image on tissue paper first.  Is there a reason why you don't just put a layer of Tombow glue on the top of the image sticker sheet that comes with the set and put vinyl on that? 

A:  I had thought about doing what you suggest, but didn't because of the possibility that joining the plastic image sticker directly to the vinyl will cause the glue to break down over time and get gunky. Then the vinyl & sticker would slide apart leaving a mess.

Q: My question is in with regards to now storing the new clear mount stamps. I've read on other sites where clear mount stamps are not supposed to be stored on acetate sheets because they will eventually bond permanently. How do you store you new converted clear mount stamps?

A: I use the Stampin' Up! cases, item #119105  available from my online store anytime.

Tips: Always check to be sure your blocks and the inside of your case is clean and dust-free.  That can cause stamps not to stick.  When using either the cases or even the clear blocks, it helps if you press and hold the stamp in place for a few seconds.  Another thing that can help your stamps cling more securely to the clear block is to "huff" or exhale your warm, moist breath onto the block before sticking the stamp on.  When I convert some stamp sets, I put one set on each side of the case and slip a piece of card stock between.  That way I can store 2 stamp sets in one case and save even more storage space!  

 Here's a picture of a retired set that I converted.  I hope this has helped.  Thanks for your emails and questions. You're keeping me on my toes!

 Susan ; )

Ordering info. is at the bottom of this post.   Thanks!

3 Responses to “Q&A regarding the Tissue & Vinyl Technique for converting stamps”

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  1. Crystal M. says:

    The picture of the stamps in the 9×12 space is so helpful… thanks so much for taking the time to do that!!
    Just placed my order! Can’t wait to get the vinyl and start converting my stamps… it’s going to make so much room in my studio nook!! Thanks so much Susan!!
    ~Crystal M.

  2. Patonslake says:

    I placed my order yesterday.
    Question: I you haven’t mounted your wood stamps, it was suggested on another site that you place the index for the stamp on it. Then you use Aleene’s tack it over and over glue. Once dried it will stick to the clear block like a vinyl. Please give your opinion on that technique.
    Thanks, Patonslake

  3. Susan Peters says:

    I’ve read about this technique or method, too. At first it seemed like a quick and easy solution to converting, but after reading further I decided not to go that route myself. More than one stamper complained that after doing this for awhile, she noticed that a sticky residue was building up on her clear blocks and the adhesive was wearing off of the stamps. So she had to regularly clean off her blocks and periodically reapply the adhesive to her stamps. Another stamper said that she had been doing this for close to a year and was beginning to see a sticky gooey mess in her storage cases. The adhesive was breaking down and sort of melting. I used to watch Aleene’s Creative Living on TV (anyone else remember that show?) and Aleene demonstrated it as a way to make removable, reusable fabric and felt embellishments for your sweaters and blouses. It’s a good product when used that way, but I’m not comfortable using it between 2 non-porous surfaces such as your stamp and clear block or your stamp and a storage case. I think it needs to breathe to avoid breaking down.

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